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Alexander McQueen’s Spring-Summer 2024 Collection, Anatomy II, captivates the industry with its blend of innovation, craftsmanship, and artistic expression; which laid the foundation for a collection that would fillet and dissect the human form with cold artistic precision.
The show was Creative Director Sarah Burton’s swan song to the brand, which she dedicated to the passion, talent and loyalty of her team along with the memory of Lee Alexander McQueen, whose wish was always to empower women. According to her, inspiration was drawn from female anatomy, Queen Elizabeth I, the blood red rose and Magdalena Abakanowicz, a transgressive and powerfully creative artist who refused ever to compromise her vision; creating a narrative that transcends traditional fashion norms.
Among the looks that stood out were a single-breasted jacket with corset detail combined with black wool grain de poudre trousers, and a tailored gown featuring a cut-out shoulder, a bloodred slashed open back bodice and structural boning detail, all set against a black wool backdrop. This ensemble exudes power and sophistication, a testament to the fashion house’s tailoring mastery.
The details draw inspiration from original illustrations found in the National Library of Medicine, reflecting Sarah Burton’s commitment to complex and accurate references, including those symbolized by her iconic “Armadillo” shaped knee and thigh boots- a touching reference to Alexander McQueen’s spring 2010 collection.
The collection includes a diversity of textures and materials, with tulle, gold pieces, metallic threads, bugle beads, glass stones, fringed organza embroidery, and silk and viscose fringes combined in striking creations.
Accessories also played an important role in completing the look, featuring a gold metal breastplate, Tudor rose ring, necklace and earrings. Ear sets, bracelets, and rings are made from gold and silver metals, along with crystals, pearls, and metal stones; providing a rebellious feel, while “Modernist” earsets and rings in gold and silver metal convey a sleek, contemporary aesthetic. The “Beam” ear set, cuff and ring in silver metal add an avant-garde touch, while the “Knot” earrings and ring in silver metal offer subtle elegance.
Sarah Burton’s farewell collection pays homage to themes characteristic of Lee McQueen—finding beauty in abyss and darkness, the rose as a dangerous beauty symbol, and, most importantly, exploring the human body, especially the female anatomy. This collection perfectly balances tailoring, complexity, aggression and softness, encapsulating the pure encompassing essence of Alexander McQueen.
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