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This spring-summer 2024 ready-to-wear collection was conceptualized by Maria Grazia Chiuri, Creative Director of Dior women’s lines, beginning from a contemplating on what the contemporary means. A current time in which before and after has to exist at the same time.
Within this highly interpretive convergence, Chiuri continues to explore the link between femininity and feminism, motivated by the certainty that fashion has, more than ever, a duty to aid women in realizing their infinite worth and to express their unique quirks. As such, she maintains an interest in all the renegades who have asserted their individuality in the face of a masculine world and confronted its system head-on.
Such rebels include witches, custodians of the knowledge of the mother-goddess, who pass on the science of plants and respect the time of nature. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s makings for Dior unveil a medieval style, an architectural silhouette, where the jacket is of masculine mode.
Some particular fabrics act as observers to a materiality, a memory of time and an intimate insight into the work of Italian artist Alberto Burri; tears, lacerations and combustions become a constitutive, performative aspect of the clothing piece.
The color palette varies between those of ash, chamomile and love potions. The Mille-fleurs, notably emblematic of Dior, is transformed into a dark motif, a contrasting floral X-ray.
Lunar phases, the rising and setting suns signalling the seasons, medicinal herbs and mythical animals are all part of this standout design, and of the embroidery also occasionally. Knitwear plays a tremendous role: it exists together and caresses the curves of the body, enveloping without constricting, it is tender, yet oozing sex appeal. An incredibly light, metallic sweater alludes to protective yet flexible chainmail.
The revolutionary, immersive NOT HER art piece, by Elena Bellantoni, continuously spreads this refusal the clichés that confine women to predefined categories. The video installation, displayed on all the walls of the show’s scenography, uses the analog split-flap device: a succession of female figures including the artist herself are seen and reworked by Elena Bellantoni. A pop spirit, imagery from sexist adverts and counterpoint phrases are used to respond to the dominant stereotype: “it’s not her, she’s no longer all that”.
All in all, this new ready-to-wear spring-summer collection from Dion thus restores the idea that the body/clothing relationship is set in the context of the times and not in the time of one day or nostalgia.
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